Review: Arc’teryx Beta Lightweight GORE-TEX Jacket

Last weekend I hit the Arc’teryx Climbing Academy to test out the latest GORE-TEX Epe membrane technology in the form of the Arc’teryx Beta Lightweight GORE-TEX Jacket. This jacket is a game-changer, promising top-tier performance while significantly reducing its environmental impact. Let’s see how it held up in the rugged terrain of the Lake District.

The new GORE-TEX innovative Membrane

So, what sets this jacket apart? It’s all about the ePE membrane. GORE-TEX has engineered this remarkable technology to be thin, strong, and incredibly durable, all without sacrificing an ounce of performance. But the real game-changer is its reduced carbon footprint.

How, you ask? Durability is key. A jacket that lasts longer spends less time in the production cycle, saving energy and resources. Plus, the Beta Lightweight incorporates recycled materials, further minimising its environmental impact.

You might be surprised to learn that even the colour of the Beta Lightweight plays a role in its eco-friendly design. The solution-dyed fabric drastically reduces water and chemical use compared to traditional dyeing methods. This, combined with the PFC-free DWR finish, proves that you don’t have to sacrifice performance for sustainability.

Testing the GORE-TEX technology in Action

The Arc’teryx Academy event was in Great Langdale in the Lake District and been the UK a whole host of different weather was forecast across the weekend, Giving perfect testing conditions for this latest technology GORE-TEX has to offer. 

Across the weekend I seriously put this jacket through its paces! The first clinic I attended was a rescue skills course high in the hills of Great Langdale. This is were breathability was really tested, The approach to the crag was steep with mixed spells of sun then cloud with a gentle breeze.

In a lot of shell jackets I have worn in the past this could prove quite troublesome due to breathability issues and getting really hot fast on approach. However in this jacket my body temperature seemed regulated and due to the jacket been so light and thin I was really comfortable whilst carrying a lot of climbing gear. 

The second half of the day I attended a trad climbing clinic, This is were I wanted to really test out the Epe membrane from a comfort point of view. 

Trad climbing in the UK can throw so much different weather at you in one afternoon so a shell jacket is often a vital bit of kit, however compared to hiking etc a lot more dynamic moves are made during trad climbing and this is were this thin yet durable membrane really shines for me. 

With the Epe membrane technology been so thin and light yet strong the jacket offered a lot more freedom of movement which is usually reserved for thinner less durable garments. To me this is vital as I can be more dynamic without compromise in performance at the crag.

The next morning in typical UK fashion we were hit with some seriously heavy rain for the entire day in Great Langdale. Sundays clinic was multi pitch rock climbing at Raven Crag on a Diff graded climb called Middlefell Buttress, The short pitches interspersed with large plateaus meant we could still get on rock despite heavy rainfall. 

For the days wet multi pitch climb the jacket had its chance to prove its waterproof capabilities. The first thing I noticed with this jacket which as a climber is a huge plus point is due to the jacket been thin it tucks very nicely under a climbing harness, and feels comfortable. 

The next point is waterproof performance, this jacket was battered by wind and rain all day and scraped against rocks during a multi-pitch and came out unscathed and I was completely dry underneath after a morning of multi-pitch in heavy rain. 

Durability was very surprising too, GORE-TEX have nailed it here! Never have I wore such a light yet robust feeling shell jacket. 

Many of the pitches during climbing I was leaning on rock placing gear and this is often when a lightweight shell jacket can really take damage as you move on upwards, not a mark on the jacket at all except the odd bit of dirt and mud which is to be expected. 

Which brings me to my next point… caring for the product. 

Caring for Your Arc’teryx Beta Lightweight Jacket

After an awesome and inspiring weekend climbing alongside some amazing Arc’tyrex athletes and absolutely brilliant guides its time to head home and wash the jacket which is mega easy. 

To Wash:

1. Prep: Close all zippers, pockets, and fasten straps.
2. Wash: Machine wash at 40°C (104°F) with liquid detergent ONLY.
3. Rinse: Rinse twice with minimal spinning.

To Dry:

1. Tumble Dry: Use a warm, gentle cycle, OR line dry.
2. Reactivate DWR: Tumble dry for 20 minutes OR iron on low heat with a towel between the iron and the jacket.

To Reapply DWR (When Water No Longer Beads):

1. Choose Product: Select a DWR treatment like Grangers.
2. Apply: Either wash-in or spray-on, depending on the product.
3. Dry: Follow the drying instructions above to reactivate the DWR.

Additional Tips:

• Avoid fabric softeners, bleach, and dry cleaning.
• Wash your jacket regularly to maintain its performance and longevity.